Centaur Blog

If you don’t know my brother he’s got the best stories known to man

Yancy (quatro) Spencer on his first hawaii trip
I was on the north shore an 16 years old, staying at mark foos ole place near wiamea. the neighbors were having a party an invited me over, bunch of wild austrailans. my first experience with meeting guys my age from another country. They were smokin doobies an mixin crazy drinks up, I shared in both ,because at the time my hunger for knowledge an a thirst for newness out of life was begining to heat up. next thing i know they were goin bonkers an i got wind that LSD was dropped in the punch. things started boiling over to me an my level of handling it so i slipped out , with a promise to surf with these guys in the morning… after not sleeping a wink , hearing monster waves crash an howls from the crazy zone party all night. the next day the sun seemed to pop straight up into the sky, an the dew on everything made me see through rainbow visions. the aussies were on it grabbing me shoving a seven nine gun in my hand an forcing me to paddle out at pinballs. Pinballs is what they call the inside of wiamea when its not quiet big enough for the main reef an coming in from more of a west angle. Basically giant heaving ledges inside an aiming towards the rocks. I survived with two waves. chanting eddie would go did not help me one bit. Anyway i booked it up the cliff put back the board an said i got to get away from these aussy nuts. So I walked down to pipeline, Not sure what I was doing i ran in to kelly slater, I knew him well from growing up in florida with him, An we would always have some sort of race or contest or wresling match. Usually we would race on the jettys at sebastian inlet or new symna or North Carolina, to the end an back, even when he was a kid he had magic big feet an would smoke me an I was good fast light an nimble. When he saw me his eyes got real big an he screamed WHAT ARE YOU DOING HERE! I was just as confused at the time but then I realised there werent to many kids out in hawaii from florida at this time. Surfing was still considered a Mans Sport. No girls really surfed, no kids got paid , the pros in those days were giant narly dudes- Mark Richards- Gary elkerton- johnny boy- pottz- Dane keloha the list goes on an on of big strong power hungery an powerful guys. So kelly was excited to see me, think he had just got a little money from sundeck so he was stoked, an i was some one to surf with, he grabed me a board an said come on lets race to paddle out at pipeline. I was totally new to pipe I just remember seeing drawings an sketches on how to paddle to the right an around. So i said why not, we walked down the beach drew a line in the sand an yelled go, took off running hit the water a paddled we had done this before an I prided myself on being a champion duck diver think i practiced in a pool all summer ducking under floats, So we were neck an neck well with so much happing so fast i never looked down to see my draw string on my swim trunks had come untied, so the first large wave that came barreling down on us, ripped my shorts completely off! They were some where around my leash, but I didnt realise that I thought they were gone! So there I was in the impact zone turning around looking for my shorts an just got pumeled an slamed with my babyD slapin all over the place , Got washed in wiggled back into my trunks. Jus to look out an see kelly paddling over a big one waving at me. Seems to be the story of my life with that guy, Events an circumstances an natures direction, have shocked me, scared me confused me humiliated me an beatin me. Congrates 9 time world champ. I’m left with broken dreams an the song pants on the ground stuck in my head.

This entry was posted on Saturday, January 30th, 2010 at 7:14 am and is filed under Stories. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.